4.1.5 Experience: Do you have enough experience to choose your own saddle? There are a countless variety of saddles on the market. It can be overwhelming, particularly if you are a new rider with limited experience. Recruit an expert to help you evaluate saddles and to assist you with selecting the appropriate one for you and your horse. Even if you do have some experience, it is always a good idea to get someone else's opinion. An experienced and reputable horse-person, saddle maker or trainer are all good candidates.

Conclusion

A saddle is a very important item for both you and your horse, and a substantial investment. Take the care and time to find the right one. Educate yourself prior to venturing out to “saddle shop” so that you know what to look for. Remember, a good saddle will last a lifetime, providing you and your companion with comfort for many blissful hours of riding!

Happy Trails All!

Bit selection for starting a young horse would depend on their type and conformation, just as it would for an older horse. A Thoroughbred-type horse with thin lips and tongue will normally be happy in a thicker bit, and for initial mouthing and lungeing their sensitivity makes a rubber or plastic (like a Happy Mouth) bit a good choice, usually in a simple straight or mullennmouth loosering style. Once riding begins, I would probably switch to a metal D-cheek or fullcheek with a 3-part mouthpiece – a French-link or KK or something similar. I find some sort of cheek helps the horse get the idea of steering a little quicker, the three-piece mouthpiece follows the contour of the horse’s mouth well, and sometimes a rubber or plastic bit allows the horse to lean on the bit and/or chew it too much. The same principles apply with other breeds – but Quarter Horses, Arabs, and many warmbloods have thick lips and tongues, making a thick bit uncomfortable. In these cases I would go with a thinner mouthpiece, probably metal right from the start, but in a three-piece mouthpiece. You have to expect that a young horse will be heavy in your hands as they try to get their balance; it is important to keep them comfortable while they learn, but you must still have enough bit for control.

FRENCH LINKS & DR.BRISTOLS

I HAVE AN ARABIAN MARE ON WHOM I WAS FIRST USING A THICK EGGBUTT, BUT IT WAS A BIT THICK FOR HER MOUTH (EVEN THOUGH SHE DOESN'T HAVE THE TYPICAL NARROW DISHY FACE AND 'TEACUP' MUZZLE), SO NOW I USE A DR. BRISTOL EGGBUTT, WHICH IS MUCH BETTER. I REALIZE THE MIDDLE PART IS WIDER THAN ON A FRENCH LINK - WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOW THESE TWO BITS FIT AND WORK? ALSO, WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE VARIOUS METALS FOR BITS?

A Dr. Bristol is a bit stronger than a French link or a 'KK'-type mouthpiece. The middle link is a flat plate that lays on the tongue, but when the reins are pulled, the edge of the plate lies at an angle to the tongue and can make the bit fairly strong. The French link has completely rounded edges and a different shape, so the only effect it has is top make the bit lie more comfortably in the horse's mouth and avoid the 'nutcracker' action of an single-jointed snaffle when the reins are used. Same with the KK models. Without seeing your horse, I would guess a 15 - 18 mm thick French link or KK would be your best bets. As for metal, stainless steel is fine if your horse is happy and producing some foam. German silver has some copper in it which horses apparently like the taste of, so that encourages 'chewing' on the bit. Pure copper mouthpieces are fairly soft, so you need to keep an eye on the condition of the mouthpiece. Aurigan is a new metal which takes things one step further by having a high percentage of copper in a metal which is really durable. It can be very helpful on a dry-mouthed horse.

 
(left) Loosering French Link   (right) Eggbutt Dr. Bristol

'KK' Eggbutt Snaffle
 

I JUST GOT TALKED INTO TRYING A KIMBERWICK. I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT IT - WHAT IS IT'S PURPOSE? I AM NOT SURE HOW TO PUT IT ON THE BRIDLE. I THINK THE SMALL HORIZONTAL OVAL GOES ON THE TOP, AND THAT THE TWO SLOTS ON THE RING ARE FOR THE BRIDLE AND THE REINS - IS THIS RIGHT?

A kimberwick is stronger than a plain snaffle, but less than a Pelham or curb. If a mature horse was strong and pulled, you might put on a kimberwick to get some control. It is sometimes a good bit for ponies, as it gives some control while using only one rein. It is not allowed in dressage at all. How severe it is depends on two things; which of the two slots on the D-cheek you attach the reins (the lower slot will give you more leverage and make the bit stronger); and how tight the curb chain is. The curb chain lies in the curb groove of the horse's jaw, and must always be twisted until it lies flat. The tighter it is, the stronger the bit is. If the bit has a jointed, rather than solid, mouthpiece, it also tends to be more severe. The picture on the left shows how to fit a regular kimberwick, though it could be fitted slightly lower and be correct; the one on the right shows the model with the slots on the cheek - an Uxeter Kimberwick.

       
(left) Correct fit of a kimberwick     (right) Uxeter Kimberwick

MARJOLAINE ASKED ABOUT USING A HACKAMORE ON HER ARABIAN PLEASURE HORSE, WHO GETS UPSET WITH ANY TYPE OF BIT IN HER MOUTH –

As long as you’re not planning to compete, a hackamore sounds like it is, at least temporarily, the answer to your mare’s bit aversion. A Jumping Hackamore is the mildest form, requiring a pretty sensible horse! The next step up, and probably the most practical for the average horse, is the English Hackamore, which has short metal shanks and a flat leather noseband and curb strap or chain. After that you get in various models which can be pretty powerful as there can be a great deal of leverage involved.

English Hackamore Jumping Hackamore

I would suggest that if you would like to be able to ride your horse in a bit eventually, you can put a well-fitting snaffle bit on a simple headstall under the hackamore. Only attach a set of reins to the hackamore at first, letting her learn that the bit isn’t going to hurt her. Gradually you should be able to add reins to the bit as well, to enable you to start training with it as well.

I assume you have had her mouth and teeth thoroughly checked to ensure that a dental problem isn’t the source of her discomfort!

I RIDE SADDLESEAT ON MY ARABIAN AND HE DOES NOT LIKE THE DOUBLE BRIDLE. HE IS MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE IN A JOINTED PELHAM. WE HAD HIS TEETH CHECKED AND THEY ARE FINE. COULD YOU TELL ME HOW THE BITS SHOULD FIT IN HIS MOUTH CORRECTLY? I HAVE VERY GENTLE HANDS AND I THINK THAT I MAY NOT HAVE IT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY. COULD YOU HELP??

In a double bridle, the snaffle, or bridoon, should fit slightly higher in the mouth than a regular snaffle; the curb fits slightly lower than a regular snaffle, with the curb chain lying flat in between. The snaffle should not be so high that it's uncomfortable, or able to touch the back teeth, the curb should not be so low it can touch the front teeth. Ideally, the bridoon and curb do not interfere with one another. Make sure the bits are not too thick for your horse's mouth - many Arabians have slightly fleshy lips and thick-ish tongues, and therefore have less room in their mouths to accommodate two bits - choose thinner ones that will be more comfortable. Experimenting with the height and width of the curb’s port can also help you find what fits his mouth most comfortably. Also, trying a different style of bridoon may help - a French link, a KK, or even a mullenmouth (unjointed) bridoon may make him more at ease.

*****

MY SON IS A TIMID RIDER AND NEEDS A LITTLE STRONGER BIT WHEN HE RIDES HIS SLIGHTLY BULL-HEADED PONY. i THINK HE NEEDS THE ADDED LEVERAGE OF A CURB, BUT i DON'T WANT A SEVERE BIT. THE PONY RIDES BEST (FOR ME) WITH A DOUBLE JOINTED SNAFFLE (WITH ROLLER - 4 3/4"). iS THERE ANY SUCH THING AS A FRENCH LINK KIMBERWICK OR SOMETHING COMPARABLE? DO YOU THINK A FRENCH LINK PELHAM WITH A CONVERTER STRAP WOULD WORK? THE PONY HAS A LOW PALATE AND DOESN'T TOLERATE A SINGLE JOINTED SNAFFLE.

You have a tricky problem, which you are already aware of. The only French-link kimberwick I've come across is a German Silver Herm Sprenger (at $220.00 CDN), but it has a pretty thick mouthpiece (18 mm?). I've seen them as well with a little copper half-moon link, but that might hit his palate, too. If money isn't an issue, one of the Myler bits would probably do the trick, as they are thin and you can vary the mouthpiece so much. Another option is to try one of those 3-ring bits (called Showjumping/Pessoa, etc), WITH a curb strap attached. (You would use a western strap or chain because of the position of the top ring). You can get a medium-thick French mouthpiece (as well as a lot of others), and alter the leverage using different rings for the reins and varying the tightness of the curb. The French-link pelham is a good idea - used with converters it mimics a kimberwick.

General Saddle Facts - Fitting Your Horse to the Saddle
 

There seems to be much confusion on the fitting of horse and saddle. One article you read tells you that even the least amount of wrong fit will permanently ruin your horse’s spine. They recommend an elaborate computerized measuring system, to be used only by a technologically trained expert, in the field, to recognize all possible pressure points on the back of the horse. The Feed store employee tells you that the saddles on their racks should fit any horse. Where is the answer? Probably somewhere in between these two scenarios.

Then we need to fit the rider. Which is the right seat size? Why do the saddles feel different when the specs show them all to have a 16" tree? Why do your legs feeling twisted? Does this mean you can only ride a used broken-in saddle?

Now there comes the selection of saddles available. Is a "nylon’ saddle good? How much money should I budget for the saddle? Don’t you save a lot of money at the horse sales? How do I buy a saddle if I have not sat in the seat? Why was that "show saddle" on E-Bay only $350.00 and all I see at saddle shops are $2500.00? Etc., etc., etc.

First, allow me to explain why I feel qualified to answer such questions. My parents have shown pictures of me riding a horse just after learning to walk. They tell me that all I ever wanted, as a child, was to be a cowboy. The Christmas that they gave each of their children bronzed first pairs of shoes, I got a pair of bronzed boots! My childhood heroes were Gene Autry and Roy Rogers. Later in life, I listened to Roy and Dale give several inspirational speeches on their life experiences. And I was fortunate to know Gene personally. Mr. Autry once surprised me by recognizing who I was in a cafe in Denver. He even remembered my name.

This rambling does eventually come to a point....Early in life I learned the values portrayed in the "good guy" roles of TV cowboys. Even though our family lived in the suburbs, and we did not own horses until I was 15 years old, I had the burning yearning. At 15, we purchased a TWH and soon after, we had purchased a small farm and were breeding and showing horses. As the Walking Horse industry got bad press for the practices used to make "artificial" gaits, I moved into the Western market. Training riders and horses, several of us learned to make a team effort of sharing knowledge while in competition. As a team, we competed together in several breeds and various disciplines. English riding was in my roots with the TWH, so when several team members began riding English, I did too. It was easy to take the experiences of one breed or discipline and apply those basics to the others.

Over the years, I have been involved in Jumping, Rodeo, Gymkhana, Halter, ... almost every aspect of horsemanship. This vast, well rounded experience, plus having a tack shop since 1974, has given a lot of insight into the correct fitting of horse and rider.

The Western saddle was developed to aid the American cowboy. Almost every part was designed to help catch cows, or make a long ride comfortable, or to keep you in the seat when the going gets rough. This saddle had roots in the deep seated saddles of the Conquistadors. The English saddle was actually developed by the Germans as a lightweight solution for war horses that could move faster and jump higher than the enemy. This was an effective scare tactic used against the enemy footsoldiers and would out-maneuver the heavy armored knights.

The English saddles were first made for larger, wider backed horses that were bred for carrying the heavy armor of the knights. As the horses were bred for agility, their backs narrowed. So, different tree widths were developed to get better fitting. The Western saddles were first used on more narrow backed horses whose ancestors were brought to the Americas by Spanish Conquistadors. To make a long history lesson short, men have always made saddles for specific purposes to fit the horses they rode at the time.

Recent history: During the 1950’s and 60’s, horses were usually rather narrow backed and not tall, as compared with the horses of today. In Western markets, the favored horse was the Quarter Horse. This horse was developed for a short quarter mile race, but became a favorite for all occasions. The standard saddle of the day was one that was built on "quarter horse" bars. It fit most Quarter Horses of the day. The bars are the runners that follow the line of the horses’ back and whose angle is determined by the angle that is used on the pommel and cantle where the bars join those parts. Reference to quarter horse bars is actually referring to the angle of the bars on the tree. English saddle fans, this would be your narrow tree.

During the late 60’s and early 70’s, there was a movement to grow bigger horses. I think this was an American mentality at the time. Bigger cars, bigger planes, bigger horses, etc. Many breeds allowed appendix registries so that breeding could develop those larger horses. With these larger horses came wider backs and the need for the semi-quarter horse bars. Semi-quarter horse bars had less angle than the quarter horse bars and thus fit more of these larger, wider bred animals. The angle chosen was one that sort of split the difference between the QH bars and the wider angle that had been developed to fit Arabian horses. Today, semi-quarter horse bars will fit better than 80% of all Western horses. English saddle fans, this would be your medium tree. These QH bars and Semi-QH bars are available on different gullet widths. The most used standard is a gullet width of 6.5". Custom saddles can be made with other widths of gullet. The gullet width is the measurement across the width of the opening under the pommel. It is measured before the skirting and fleece is attached. If you are measuring your saddle, press hard into the fleece to get a more accurate measurement. Fleece will compact, but the leather of the skirting will not. If you are handy, you can detach, then raise or lower the skirt's attachment to the tree for some adjustment in gullet width. If you are not handy, take your saddle to an experienced saddler for adjustment. This is great to know if you just changed horses and if a small adjustment will let you continue to use your present saddle. English fans, you can have your saddles adjusted too. Often, the stuffing in the bottom of the saddle can be added to, or taken out, to adjust for your horse. With the English saddle, you can adjust the stuffing anywhere in the bottom. This allows you to "lift" the fit as needed, front or rear!

Over the past two years, in an effort to be more specialized, many production saddle makers are offering some saddles in the quarter horse bars’ angle on a 7" gullet width. This they call "full" quarter horse bars. It is designed to fit wide backed horses, those who tend to have a problem with saddles slipping sideways due to flat withers conditions or large bone structure. The saddle widens over the center back of the horse then has angles that hold the topsides. English saddle fans, this would fit the horse that needs your wide tree.

If, on the other hand, your horse has a high withers, you will not have problems with slipping sideways. Your problems will be rubbing on the top of the withers or poor fit on the sides of those high withers. Go to the quarter horse bars and request a high pommel clearance. This clearance is also called gullet height. English saddle fans, you have a distinct advantage with your English cutback pommel, open sky clearance!

The sad truth is that there is no true industry standards of measurements in tree widths or angles of English or Western saddlery. Often, in order to market to the masses, production saddlers will call the semi-quarter horse tree a "quarter horse" tree so you will better assume it will fit your Quarter Horse. Modern skirting techniques allow more general fitting than older styling. In today’s Western saddles, you simply assume that the saddle you order will fit 90% of horses. English saddles are often ordered by tree widths. The widths may be numbered, (1,2,3,4,5) or simply called narrow, medium and wide. This sizing varies by the maker and by the level of quality in the makers equipment and methodology.

Now that I have seemingly made everything sound hopelessly complicated, let me simplify in summation. Remember that the standard trees in most Western saddles will fit most horses. The medium tree width on English saddles will fit most horses with no problems. Most of this discussion is to help identify the problem fitting horses. Tell your dealer or saddle maker how your horses are built. Narrow backed and high withered, etc. Show pictures if you can. Discuss what saddles have or have not fit in the past. Has there been any injury that should be accounted for? What is the intended use of the saddle? With enough discussion, you will order a saddle that will fit your horse! Being an Internet source, and a location store, we suggest you call dealers with facts and questions. Be sure their sources use the same general theories that ours do, or have them explain the differences so that you can understand clearly. Saddles are not wise to order with a "BUY" button.

If you have enough budget, have a custom saddle built to fit each individual horse. Truth is that as your horsemanship needs get more intense and more specialized, you will need to consider this. If after discussion with the saddler, you still wonder about the fit, or if you have had problems fitting the horse in the past, follow these steps. Take a few tracings across the back of the horse at the top of the withers, and every 4" back from the first measurement, until you have the length of the back you will cover with the saddle tree. Do this by bending a wire across the back, then tracing the underside of the wire on paper that can be cut to slide under the saddle which you would like to ensure proper fitting. If your horse has an unusual top line, bend a wire to match it then trace on paper. Start from the mid withers. If the saddle is custom built, mail these papers to the necessary parties.

If you have a budget for one saddle that you need to fit yourself, but must use with all your horses, get a saddle built upon a medium tree, semi-quarter horse bars. Or if all your horses are wider backed draft breeds, or narrow backed gaited horses, buy accordingly. There are some wonderful pads made to adjust saddle fitting to an art.

If you have several varieties of bone structure with which to deal, use a cutback, built-up pad for the high narrow withered animals. Use a thin non-slip type of neoprene pad for those wider backed, flat-withered guys. There are also various wedge pads, pads with holes drilled for spine relief, contoured pads for the backs that seem to have more curvature, and gel pads that absorb the shock of hard work or a not quite fitting situation. Talk with your favorite tack dealer, Cultured Cowboy, about these needs in more detail.

Most all saddles are made with length of bars so that they fit almost all horses. Even when the seat sizes change, much of the change is done on top of the running bars. The cantle is moved forward or back on the bars, rather than elongating the bars to an uncomfortable position for the horse. Occasionally, you will have a short backed horse that is the exception to the rule. Semi-custom or custom bar lengths for trees can be made. We like to work closely with the tree maker and the saddle maker when this is the case. You do not want too much pressure on the kidneys. Or perhaps a round skirt will get the saddle off the flank area. Many Arab saddles are rounded for this reason.

Sometimes a "barrel racing type saddle will help fit a horse. They are usually made on the semi-quarter horse bars and are designed to fit a bit higher on the back of the horse. This is done to cut weight, but effectively makes fitting some horses easier. Most have a rather deep pocket and higher cantle designed for staying in the saddle on fast take-off. This tends to be very supportive to the lower back of the rider.

One of the features of the "treeless" or flex tree type saddles is that as you tighten the girth, it conforms to the back of the horse. Circle Y pioneered this saddle and Tex Tan also has a great version. Big Horn has just finalized their version. Moderate in price and toward the lighter weight of saddles, these units often fit when nothing else seems to be able. This flex tree is great for pleasure riding. However, if you need the rigors of ranch roping or wild cow catching, do not tie a rope to these things. They are durable, but not made for heavy pulling work. Go back to a regular ranch or roping saddle and use "too much" padding for the comfort of your horse.

What are some of the tell-tale signs of an ill fitting saddle? First, look for any places where the hair seems to be rubbing off. Hopefully you will catch the problem before there is a raw spot. If you find a horse with white patches on the area of the back, it usually had a problem with saddle equipment fitting in the past. Many pads are designed to allow air flow through them. If you are using one of these pads, look for areas of the horse's back that are wetter than others. Check to see if there is a tighter fit in this area than on the rest of the saddle fitting area. Other pads, such as wool pads, work to cool the back by wicking moisture. If there is a dry area, keep a close watch for problems. Especially watch for lines of sweat or dryness that tend to indicate the saddle is resting on either the top line of the bars without resting on the entire bars, or if the saddle is resting on the bottom line and not touching the top line. Saddles are designed for the entire bar width to rest in alignment, properly and fully along the line of the horse's back. If the saddle constantly slips sideways, use a three way breast collar with a neoprene girth and neoprene pad. If this does not stop the slipping, you probably need another tree type. If the withers area looks rubbed, use a cutback pad. If your saddle gusset is still sitting on the withers with no clearance, you need a different saddle. If your saddle seems to fit the alignment of the horse's back, but slips forward or back, check the tightness of the girth often. Change to a wider girth, and/or neoprene girth and pad to stop the slippage and a breast collar and/or crouper may be in order. If these tools do not stop the movement, you may need a different saddle.

Lots of bits fill tack shops and equestrian catalogs. Which to choose? Straight mouth or port? Rubber, twisted or metal mouthpiece? Bits are "the most misunderstood piece of horse equipment ever invented. All too often, the human take on the situation is that a horse is a big animal, therefore the pressures needed to control it must be big and strong," Ron Meredith says.

"Not true," insists the president of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre in Waverly, W.Va. Actually, there are very few surfaces in a horse's mouth where a bit can apply pressure, "so it takes some pretty complex applications of pressure to those few points to create complex communication. The bit must be shaped in such a way to fit properly within the mouth so the horse is able to understand what the communication is," he says.

The area in the mouth where the bit communicates pressure to the horse is called the bars.

"These gaps between the front teeth and the back teeth on either side of the jaw consist of tissue-covered, pressure-sensitive cartilage. The bit lies across the bars and presses against the horse's tongue. Depending on its shape and adjustment, a bit can also put pressure on the horse's lips and on the roof of its mouth," Meredith says. He notes that pressure on the lips is least effective, "because the lips are an unstable surface and are easily injured."

The first thing to look for on any device you put in the horse's mouth is the contact area.

"The thinner the bit, the less contact area it has and the greater the pressure on the bars. The thicker the bit, the greater the contact area and the lower the pressure," Meredith explains. "The effective size of the mouthpiece is the first thing to look at because it will determine how noticeable the pressure you apply will be."

The second item to look for is whether the mouthpiece is straight or shaped to relieve pressure on the tongue.

"If the bit is straight, the horse's tongue absorbs some of the pressure and the horse will feel less pressure on the bars. If the mouthpiece is hinged or grooved so it relieves pressure on the tongue, the bit is more noticeable on the bars of the mouth and gives more directional guidance," Meredith says.

Leverage is the third bit aspect to examine. "To measure leverage, compare the distance from the mouthpiece to where the reins attach to the distance from the mouthpiece to the curb chain," Meredith says.

Most curb bits have a three to one ratio. That means if you put 10 pounds of pull on the reins, the horse will feel 30 pounds of pressure squeezing his mouth. There's more: Leverage decreases the amount of time it takes for the horse to feel bit pressure.

"If you have a bit with a three to one leverage ratio, the horse feels 10 pounds of pressure three times faster than if you applied 10 pounds of pressure with a non-leverage bit like a snaffle," he says.

A curb bit should only be used on a horse that is well-trained, and only if it is used as a signaling device rather than as an aid in getting a horse to shape itself correctly,

"Curbs are non-directional," Meredith points out. "Their pressure is felt as a clamping between the horse's chin and the bars of the mouth. Therefore, it can convey minimal direction to the horse. If you use a chain, the pressure is more noticeable underneath the chin. If you use a thick leather strap, the pressure is more noticeable on the bars of the mouth."

He is quick to say that the biggest mistake riders make is picturing the bit by itself. "The bit is only part of the overall corridor of aids, that is your seat, legs and reins, you use to create the shape you want your horse to take. You don't want the bit to be louder than your legs or seat, and you don't need a big bit to get the horse's attention. You just need to know how to use a bit to make it understandable to the horse."

Too many people rely solely on the bit. "They say to themselves, 'If this bit doesn't seem to work, I'll try one with a longer shank, or one with a thinner mouthpiece," Meredith notes.

If those don't work, they seem to think that other artificial aids will make the animal more controllable.

People tend to start a horse with a quiet bit, but "the farther along in training they go, they automatically put a bigger bit in the horse's mouth. What happens is that the horse gets used to bigger and bigger bits. Eventually, you need the bigger bit because the horse is used to the beating he gets with it every day," Meredith says.

Using legs and seat is what shapes the horse, he reiterates. "You need to use a full corridor of pressure that the horse feels and understands," he says. "When you choose a bit, choose one that can never speak louder than your seat or legs."

Bad fit snit. "If a bit doesn't fit properly, the horse will fuss with his mouth, toss his head or pull," says Susan Harris, author of the United States Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship.

"The bridle needs to be comfortable. Make sure it's not rubbing or pinching," she adds. "All bits should be about a half-inch wider than your horse's mouth. They must be smooth and comfortable, with no rough or rusty spots, and they shouldn't rub the animal's lips."

A true snaffle bit should "rest high in the horse's mouth so it won't irritate the horse's tongue," Harris says. "You also need it high enough so the horse can't get his tongue over it. A properly fitted snaffle should make one or two gentle wrinkles at the corner of the lips.

"If you're using a curb bit (a pelham, kimberwicke or western curb), it should rest against the corners of your horse's mouth without making a wrinkle. You need to make sure that the curb chain isn't pinching, either."

The instructor cautions against having any bit too low. "As you get lower in the horse's mouth, the bars get thinner and sharper, thus the mouth is more sensitive. You can really irritate the horse if the bit is too low, and you can really hurt his mouth if he gets his tongue over the bit."

Fitting a curb chain is important, too. "Curbs are designed to work correctly when the bit swivels 45 degrees back. Putting two fingers sideways under the curb chain is a rough estimate of whether the chain is adjusted properly. But make sure the bit can swivel 45 degrees, and that the curb chain or strap lies flat against the pony's chin," Harris urges.

Not only is bit fitting important, but so is fitting the entire bridle essential to comfort and resultant good behavior.

"The height of the bit is adjusted by the cheek pieces, so you want to make sure those are adjusted properly," the Cortland, N.Y., horse owner notes. "You want to make sure the browband and crownpiece don't rub the horse's ears."

The throatlatch should be loose enough to allow the horse to flex his neck. "If you are able to fit your fist under the throatlatch, it's properly adjusted," Harris says.

A regular caveson, or noseband, should rest two fingers below the point of the cheekbone and be moderately snug.

"It's cruel to really tighten down the noseband," Harris says. "Young horses may still be cutting their cheek teeth, and a tight caveson can hurt. Even on an older horse, a very tight caveson can cut into the sharp edge of the top teeth, really hurting."

The upper caveson needs to be snug on a flash noseband, and the jaw strap smooth. "The noseband should not irritate the nostrils. Furthermore, if you're using a dropped or figure-eight noseband, the buckle should not be under the chin, but rather on the front of the horse's nose. Riders who opt for a bosal should place it at the end of the horse's nose bone," Harris says.

"Run your fingers down where the bone ends and the cartilage is spongy. The belief that a bosal placed too low can suffocate a horse is an old wives' tale. But a bosal placed too low will irritate. A mechanical hackamore, which many barrel racers and western riders use, should be placed a couple of fingers higher than the bosal."
 

There are five main types of bits each of these types have variations and they all bring a pressure in a different place. There are seven "points of control" (not all within the mouth): poll (indicates to the horse to lower his head), nose, curb groove (when used in addition to poll pressure this tilts the horse's nose in towards his chest and more towards the conventional "on the bit" position), corners of the mouth/lips, bars of the mouth, roof of the mouth and the tongue. rein aids create pressure at these points; when the horse responds, pressure should be released.

Snaffle - Mouthpieces can be solid or hollow. A broad-mouthed, loose ringed jointed snaffle is considered to be one of the kindest bits.  It brings pressure to bear on the tongue and bars and corners of the mouth (known as the nutcracker action) with the rings allowing play in the mouthpiece. The thinner the diameter of the mouthpiece the more severe the bit becomes. Adding a link, such as the French link, which lies in a curve against the tongue can soften the contact. The Dr Bristol, which lies flat but at an angle acts on the tongue in a more severe way.  The mullen mouth snaffle has a gentler action than the jointed mouthpiece. It is even milder if it is made from a flexible, soft material. The mullen mouth spreads pressure across the whole tongue but it's rigidity may encourage horses to lean on the bit. Eggbut rings allow less play in the mouth but help prevent pinching to the lips. Loose rings encourage mouthing.

To fit a snaffle bit place the fingers on the corners of the bit where the mouthpiece joins the rings. Press down to straighten the bit in the mouth.  The mouthpiece should just touch the corners of the mouth and, when released, cause one or two creases in the skin. if the bit is too large, it has a tendency to sit unevenly in the mouth, hanging out of one side - the leverage applied will be much greater on one side. If the bit is badly made and doesn't hang evenly when folded in half then again leverage is applied unevenly.

Gag - this looks similar to snaffles but gags are, with the exception of a chiffney bit, the most dangerous of bits and can cause terrible injuries.  Gags have the same pressure points as a snaffle, but with the addition of the leather attachment can have up to 12 inches of additional leverage. This can impose an extreme force on the poll and the corners of the mouth. Like pelhams the gag is a two rein bit.

To fit a gag fit as for the snaffle above but the tightness of the cheek pieces will have an impact on the severity.  The higher the fitting, the more constant pressure there is on the poll. If the fitting is lower and looser then the pressure is quicker and the contact more violent.

Hackamore - A bitless bridle works on the poll and nose pressure. The noseband should fit two fingers' width below the prominent cheek bones at the side of the face. The under-part is padded and acts above the curb groove. The longer the shanks the more poll pressure there will be. A horse cannot breathe through its mouth so careful use of gentle giving hands is a necessity with a hackamore.

Pelham - the pelham attempts to achieve the same results on its own as a double. This bit is designed to be ridden on two reins, so that the top rein (snaffle rein) operates in much the same way as a snaffle.  When necessary the bottom curb rein is used to introduce poll and curb action. the pelham has a wide range of mouthpieces such as mullen mouth and jointed mouth.

To check that a pelham or kimblewick is sitting correctly in the horse's mouth, press gently on the corners of the bit and then release it. There should be one or two creases in the corners of the mouth.

Double - The snaffle bit of a double is known as a bradoon. In addition to the bradoon a curb bit is introduced. the bradoon operates in the same way as a snaffle on its own.  The curb bit is intended to operate on those points of control not already being used by a snaffle bit i.e. the poll and the curb groove. In dressage you are permitted to use a double bridle from Elementary level onwards, but it is not compulsory until you reach Advanced level.

To fit a curb chain place one link over the offside hook, ensure that the links are lying flat and take up the link judged to be the right length. Place this link over the nearside hook. When the shanks are at a 45 degree angle, the curb chain should come into effect.

When selecting a curb chain make sure it has a smooth finish. Take care when adjusting it . If it is fitted too loosely it can rise above the curb groove and damage the lower jaw. If it is fitted too tightly  the action will be too severe and excessive pressure can damage the curb groove and bars of the mouth. The lip strap attaches at each side of the bit's cheeks and passes through the loose link at the lower edge of the centre of the chain. It makes sure that the curb chain sits correctly and that curb bits such as the Banbury cannot rotate too far.

With a double bridle, the curb bit should be the correct size to fit the horse's mouth and the bradoon should be oversized by quarter of an inch.

Bits are made up of different materials. 

Rubber, plastic and vulcanite.

Sweet Iron (better known as wrought iron), these bits rust easily. This type of material makes the horse mouth the bit well but the rust tends to show on the face of the horse. Also difficult to clean.

Stainless Steel , strong and easy to clean, can make the horse dry mouthed. 

Copper Alloys, bits such as Kangaroo and Aurigan (manufactured by Sprenger). The horse salivates and accepts the bit It quickly responds to temperature changes.

Horse Saddles

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Useful Books from Amazon:

Saddle Fitting No 15
Kay Humphries, John Thompsom (Photographer)

Amazon Price: £4.95
Availability: Usually dispatched within 24 hours

Repair Your Own Saddlery and Harness  
Robert H. Steinke

List Price: £14.95
Amazon Price: £11.96
You Save: £2.99 (20%)
Availability: Usually dispatched within 2-3 days

Saddlery and Harness Making  
Paul N. Hasluck

Amazon Price: £9.95

Tools and equipment for saddlery making and repairs can be bought from Abbey Saddlery.

A free saddle fitting guide is available from Thorowgood, tel: 01922 711676). It is not intended to replace advice from a professionally qualified person.

Western Saddle & Bridle Kit instructions

TIP - Rub methylated spirit on the bottom of the girth area and on the horse's back, where the rear of the saddle sits.  This hardens the skin and helps avoid girth galls and saddle rubs.

For Western Tack try: 

Arizonas

Cowboy Central Saddlery - Large selection of saddles tack and apparel. Buy online or over the phone.

Dale Western Trading - Western Tack and accessories in the UK.

E Saddlery - Buy tack on line - based in California.

Heathlands, Priory Farm, Blackborough End, Kings Lynn, Norfolk, PE32 1FQ, Tel no: 01533 841 282, Email: heathlands.western@dial.pipex.com

Saddles and Tack - online auction for western, English, general, driving and miniature tack.

Saddles "R" Us- Online store with a difference. Based in the UK. They will find and import any western tack you want. Second hand saddles, or sell your saddle through them.

Sheplers Western Wear - Large selection of western wear. Online shopping with shipping overseas.

The Saddle Shop - Saddles with clear pictures of the saddles from all angles. They ship outside the US and offer secure online ordering.

The Western Department, Rookery Farm, Marsh Road, Shabbington, Bucks, HP18 9HF. Tel no 01844 201656, Mobile: 0705 0098 656.

Western Exposure- Western tack and apparel in the UK

West Ways Saddlery- Western tack online. Based in The Midlands, UK

The Western Shop- The classifieds section quite often has people selling tack or apparel.

Western Store

Pictures of Types of Saddles:

Dressage Saddle    General Purpose Saddle    Jumping Saddle

                                (Click on pictures to enlarge.)

Side Saddle:

The Side Saddle Association, tel 01858 575 300, has a list of where to hire side saddles and also a list of second hand saddles for sale.

 

Hire of side saddles;

Mr. D. Gray (Side-saddle Hire)
Tel: 0121 308 7395.

Mrs. V. Lewis (Side-saddles and habits)
Tel: 01622 890279.

Useful Web Sites:

Frank Baines  

Free "n" Easy Saddle Company

History of the Leather Trade

Saddle Rite

Period Horse Coverings  - History of Horse Coverings and Tack.

History & Development of the saddle:

http://www.cbc.ca/kids/general/the-lab/history-of-invention/saddle.html

The Evolution of the Western Saddle

Links on saddle fitting:
http://www.bitsandbridles.com/saddle_fit.shtml

http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/howshoulifit.html

http://www.saddleworld.co.uk/fitting_article.htm

Signs of an ill-fitting saddle.
http://www.saddleworld.co.uk/fitting_article2.htm

Videos:

The Society of Master Saddlers has released a video: Saddle Fitting Explained, presented by Alice Plunkett.  Cost at around £10.95 plus p&p.

Racing Tack Websites:

Asmussen Horse & Rider Equipment - TX, USA

Dowen Saddlery - Location: New York, USA

Eclipse Saddle Co

Harley Racing - Northants, UK

Horse Requisites - Location Newmarket, UK.

Jockey Site

Mckey Manufacturing - Location: Australia.

Pinkston's Turf Goods - Location: Kentucky, USA.

Quillin Leather & Tack - Location: Kentucky, USA.

Wellop Racing Saddles - Location: UK.

Second Hand Racing Saddles:

E J Wicks, Lambourn, Berks, Tel: 01488 71766

F J Chandlers, Marlborough, Tel: 01672 512633